TWP 100 Series Deck Stain – The Best Deck Stain
Need Help or Advice when using TWP 100 Stain?
TWP 100 Series Total Wood Protectant (TWP) Wood Deck Stain protects and prolongs all exterior woods, decks, and fences. TWP Wood Deck Stains and Sealers is a distinctive mixture of chemicals blended together to form a professional strength formula that preserves exterior wood surfaces in numerous ways.
TWP 100 Series Stain will perform at its maximum potential when the wood is properly prepped and when the stain is properly applied. Unfortunately not all wood is in the same condition prior to applying the stain.
Order Now: TWP 100 Series
Do you have any questions about using the TWP 100 Wood and Deck Stain?
Please answer these few questions to achieve the best possible results with your TWP 100 Wood and Decking Stain.
Age of wood?- Type of wood?
- Condition of the wood?
- Has it been stained previously and if so with what brand of stain?
- Small description of the area to be treated.
Ask Questions in Comment Area Below
AGE: 12 yrs
TYPE: treated pine
CONDITION: majority is fair to good, I replaced heavily worn boards this year.
PRIOR STAIN: Olympic Maximun
Description: 2 level large deck around pool, heavy sun exposure, vinyl railing.
I have a 12 year old pressure treated deck that has not been treated before. Just within the past week, cleaned it and cleaned it. The wood appears to be in good shape with nice wood grain. I live in West Virginia, which TWP product do you recommend?
[quote name=”JEREMY KERSLAKE”]This deck is about 15 years old and was stained with a behr product originally. Since then it has been stripped and had CWF applied. This has also been stripped although there are still residues here and there. The deck railing is still coated with CWF and is in good condition where not exposed to sun. The deck was then stained twice with woodguard about 6 and 4 years ago. It has since been pressure washed and needs to be restained. The homeowner will sell the house this year and has a budget that does not cover stripping everything. The deck and rail do not need to be perfect but look maintained and good at a glance. Solid stain is not an option. What would TWP look like over these slightly different surfaces? Any other advice?[/quote]
You cannot use TWP on top of these other brands. It will not work or adhere well.
This deck is about 15 years old and was stained with a behr product originally. Since then it has been stripped and had CWF applied. This has also been stripped although there are still residues here and there. The deck railing is still coated with CWF and is in good condition where not exposed to sun. The deck was then stained twice with woodguard about 6 and 4 years ago. It has since been pressure washed and needs to be restained. The homeowner will sell the house this year and has a budget that does not cover stripping everything. The deck and rail do not need to be perfect but look maintained and good at a glance. Solid stain is not an option. What would TWP look like over these slightly different surfaces? Any other advice?
[quote name=”Steve B”]I would like to use TWP stain on my deck. Which series would be best? I’m leaning towards series 100.
1. 1 year old
2. Pressure treated (pine?)
3. Great
4. no
5. 150 sq ft deck, full sun
we live in MN, so we get very hot summers and very cold winters, as well as very dry falls and very humid springs.
I will be using a wood cleaner/brightener first. Thank you.[/quote]
Use the 100 Series for this.
[quote name=”Donald Wiggins”]16 years, treated pine, ok condition, previously treated with with flood solid stain, 250 sq food deck and 18 stairs[/quote]
For you to use the TWP you would need to remove the solid stain and that would require power sanding the Flood off the deck as stain strippers are ineffective on solid stains. Once removed you can use the TWP.
16 years, treated pine, ok condition, previously treated with with flood solid stain, 250 sq food deck and 18 stairs
I would like to use TWP stain on my deck. Which series would be best? I’m leaning towards series 100.
1. 1 year old
2. Pressure treated (pine?)
3. Great
4. no
5. 150 sq ft deck, full sun
we live in MN, so we get very hot summers and very cold winters, as well as very dry falls and very humid springs.
I will be using a wood cleaner/brightener first. Thank you.
[quote name=”keith west”]1. Wood is 6 years old
2. Treated pine
3. good
4. Wood has been stained with Cabot semisolid wood stain
5. Deck around swimming pool and rail.[/quote]
If you would like to use the TWP you will need to remove the Cabot stain first with a stain stripper and possibly sanding. Once removed use the wood brightener.
1. Wood is 6 years old
2. Treated pine
3. good
4. Wood has been stained with Cabot semisolid wood stain
5. Deck around swimming pool and rail.
[quote name=”Michael Saville”]I have a newly built house that is only 1.5 years old and this is the second summer coming up and I was wanting to stain it with the TWP 100 cape cod gray. It is all treated lumber and is starting to get that gray look to it because it has not been stained yet. The back porch is out in the open and the front porch is covered. Please let me know if you feel this is the right stain for my project. Thanks.[/quote]
Yes it would be perfect for this project. You do have to prep first.
I have a newly built house that is only 1.5 years old and this is the second summer coming up and I was wanting to stain it with the TWP 100 cape cod gray. It is all treated lumber and is starting to get that gray look to it because it has not been stained yet. The back porch is out in the open and the front porch is covered. Please let me know if you feel this is the right stain for my project. Thanks.
[quote name=”theodore graham”][quote name=”theodore graham”]Can I buy the 100 in Illinois[/quote]
There was a product I brought but was told it could no longer be sold in the state of ILL[/quote]
Only the 1500 in IL.
[quote name=”theodore graham”]Can I buy the 100 in Illinois[/quote]
There was a product I brought but was told it could no longer be sold in the state of ILL
Can I buy the 100 in Illinois
[quote name=”Chad12345″]Build deck 2 years ago with Cedar. Prepped and stained last year for the first time with cedartone 101 stain. We already have peeling. I want to redo it this year with something a little more brown in color instead of the orangish it currently is. I think Pecan is my best choice. Do I need to strip all the original stain off or can I go over the top? Any other prep work suggested?[/quote]
Clean and prep with the Gemini Restore kit and add one coat of the TWP Pecan. Do not over apply as that is why it may have peeled.
[quote name=”jhreha”]My cedar deck is almost 20 years old and has never been stained. I have 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep cracks in some of the wood. Should or could I fill in these cracks before applying TWP 100? Located in SW Missouri. Any advice would be appreciated.[/quote]
Crack filler will not work for outside wood and the TWP will not stain/color the filler. Do not use the filler.
My cedar deck is almost 20 years old and has never been stained. I have 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep cracks in some of the wood. Should or could I fill in these cracks before applying TWP 100? Located in SW Missouri. Any advice would be appreciated.
Build deck 2 years ago with Cedar. Prepped and stained last year for the first time with cedartone 101 stain. We already have peeling. I want to redo it this year with something a little more brown in color instead of the orangish it currently is. I think Pecan is my best choice. Do I need to strip all the original stain off or can I go over the top? Any other prep work suggested?
[quote name=”Dave Antrim”]Our deck is approx. 16×25 and not covered, about 10 years old made of pressure treated wood. Initially used a semi-transparent stain. 2 years later re-did it. Not satisfied with the results, and 2 years ago used Cabot solid stain and still looked crappy, but after the brutal winter this year, is flaking and peeling. Time to re-do it, but unsure what product to use that will last.[/quote]
You cannot use TWP on top of other stains or solid stains. You will need to remove the Cabot first by sanding all of it off. Once removed you can use the TWP after prepping with the Gemini Restore Kit.
Our deck is approx. 16×25 and not covered, about 10 years old made of pressure treated wood. Initially used a semi-transparent stain. 2 years later re-did it. Not satisfied with the results, and 2 years ago used Cabot solid stain and still looked crappy, but after the brutal winter this year, is flaking and peeling. Time to re-do it, but unsure what product to use that will last.
[quote name=”Ed Bolt”]My PTP deck was built last summer and I stained it using tinted Thompson’s Water Seal. This spring there was a lot of mold/mildew and the stain was chipping and peeling up in several areas. I used a stain stripper and brightener that removed about 90% of the stain. There were still stubborn areas of stain that would not come up even after repeated applications of the stripper. I sanded the remaining spots to remove the stain and also did a light sanding over the entire deck. What do I need to do to prep the deck for TWP 100 stain? Will power washing the deck be sufficient or do I need to use a deck wash and brightener again?[/quote]
It would help to use a deck cleaner and brightener with the pressure washing to help aid the TWP in this. It will absorb deeper into the wood grain.
[quote name=”James lambert”]I just stained my swing frame I built out of Pecky Cypress. This was new wood dried, and plained smooth. Should I put a second coat? If so how soon should this be done?[/quote]
No, only 1 coat on new wood. did you let it weather for 4+ months and prep correctly first?
[quote name=”Jerry Hill”]New white pine, dried, PT, rough sawn, 6′ vertical fence boards in good condition; installed February 2014; no previous stain; shadow-box fence.
What is the coverage rate?
Live in North Central Florida[/quote]
About 150-200 sq. feet per gallon.
New white pine, dried, PT, rough sawn, 6′ vertical fence boards in good condition; installed February 2014; no previous stain; shadow-box fence.
What is the coverage rate?
Live in North Central Florida
I just stained my swing frame I built out of Pecky Cypress. This was new wood dried, and plained smooth. Should I put a second coat? If so how soon should this be done?
My PTP deck was built last summer and I stained it using tinted Thompson’s Water Seal. This spring there was a lot of mold/mildew and the stain was chipping and peeling up in several areas. I used a stain stripper and brightener that removed about 90% of the stain. There were still stubborn areas of stain that would not come up even after repeated applications of the stripper. I sanded the remaining spots to remove the stain and also did a light sanding over the entire deck. What do I need to do to prep the deck for TWP 100 stain? Will power washing the deck be sufficient or do I need to use a deck wash and brightener again?
[quote name=”Maryann”]My cedar deck floor is approximately 6 years old. Deck is on the north side of the house. Currently finished with Sikkens and most recent coat was applied 3 years ago. The finish is lightly peeling where exposed to the sun. And has black edges due to improper application of the Sikkens product by the painters. Parts not exposed to the sun look good, except for darkening due to application. We are avid gardeners and do not want to use a caustic stripper on the deck, and it is my understanding that stripping would not be successful on Sikkens anyway. It have been told that a complete sanding will be necessary. I have read that you do not advise sanding decks before using TWP. Please advise the best course of action given the previous application of Sikkens and extensive landscaping and a brick patio around the deck.[/quote]
If you do not want to stripper than you will need to sand as you cannot apply TWP on the Sikkens.
[quote name=”Gary Granger”]We have a 8 year old cedar deck that is in the process of being sanded to bare wood to re stain. After the sanding is complete, can I immediately use your product or should I wait for a period of time.[/quote]
After sanding use the Gemini Restore Kit for the prep and you can stain after that.
My cedar deck floor is approximately 6 years old. Deck is on the north side of the house. Currently finished with Sikkens and most recent coat was applied 3 years ago. The finish is lightly peeling where exposed to the sun. And has black edges due to improper application of the Sikkens product by the painters. Parts not exposed to the sun look good, except for darkening due to application. We are avid gardeners and do not want to use a caustic stripper on the deck, and it is my understanding that stripping would not be successful on Sikkens anyway. It have been told that a complete sanding will be necessary. I have read that you do not advise sanding decks before using TWP. Please advise the best course of action given the previous application of Sikkens and extensive landscaping and a brick patio around the deck.
We have a 8 year old cedar deck that is in the process of being sanded to bare wood to re stain. After the sanding is complete, can I immediately use your product or should I wait for a period of time.
[quote name=”Chris Wright”]I feel like I am being mis-informed continually by others. I was told to sand then to not sand now. I am kind of pissed off that the sikkens cedar place I bought the wood from that I was told prior was the best and would work yet has created more of a mess. So if I use the stripper and brightener. Then I should be ready to re-apply TWP 100 within a couple of days maybe? Then am I doing two coats wet on wet? Thanks for your help in this and if you know of specific stripper or brightener that would help otherwise I may run into another expert that could mis-inform me again. Thanks[/quote]
The SRD can be stripped with the RAD Stripper we sell. It can be a little stubborn but it will come off. Sand only as a last resort in our opinion. Yes apply two light coats wet on wet after drying for a couple of days or so.
I feel like I am being mis-informed continually by others. I was told to sand then to not sand now. I am kind of pissed off that the sikkens cedar place I bought the wood from that I was told prior was the best and would work yet has created more of a mess. So if I use the stripper and brightener. Then I should be ready to re-apply TWP 100 within a couple of days maybe? Then am I doing two coats wet on wet? Thanks for your help in this and if you know of specific stripper or brightener that would help otherwise I may run into another expert that could mis-inform me again. Thanks
[quote name=”Chris Wright”]1 yr old 2×6 architectural knotty cedar smooth as decking. Spotty absorbing of previous stain. Looking to re-sand and use twp 100. Prior product was sikkens cetol srd. I noticed the black mildew and spotty absorbsion especially around some of the knots. I was wondering if after I stain before I use the twp 100 cedartone if I need an additional steps. I have used the ezdeck wash to clear off most of the wood and am going to sand off the remainging spots of prior stain tonight. But, I want to make sure I am making the best effort to not have to be doing this again so shortly. Thanks![/quote]
You should probably use a deck stain stripper to remove the SRD and brighten the wood after. This usually works better than sanding. Spot sanding can create issues of uneven absorption.
1 yr old 2×6 architectural knotty cedar smooth as decking. Spotty absorbing of previous stain. Looking to re-sand and use twp 100. Prior product was sikkens cetol srd. I noticed the black mildew and spotty absorbsion especially around some of the knots. I was wondering if after I stain before I use the twp 100 cedartone if I need an additional steps. I have used the ezdeck wash to clear off most of the wood and am going to sand off the remainging spots of prior stain tonight. But, I want to make sure I am making the best effort to not have to be doing this again so shortly. Thanks!
[quote name=”Tim Hogan”]Cedar deck installed late last summer, looking at finishing it now. Minneapolis Minnesota. The deck will get run-off from the roof all year long. It is a southern exposure with sun most of the day. I prefer to stay with a lighter more natural stain, but definitely want the UV protection. Why would I use the 100, over the 1500?
Also I am installing Stainless steel cable system. Is there any precaution I should use for where the posts will mount to the deck?
Thanks,
Tim[/quote]
Use the 100 Series for this. No need to worry about stainless steel mounts.
[quote name=”Randy Bricker”]New red cedar deck
been exposed to weather for about a month.[/quote]
Randy, please read:
http://www.twpstainhelp.com/prepping-new-wood-for-twp-stains/
Cedar deck installed late last summer, looking at finishing it now. Minneapolis Minnesota. The deck will get run-off from the roof all year long. It is a southern exposure with sun most of the day. I prefer to stay with a lighter more natural stain, but definitely want the UV protection. Why would I use the 100, over the 1500?
Also I am installing Stainless steel cable system. Is there any precaution I should use for where the posts will mount to the deck?
Thanks,
Tim
New red cedar deck
been exposed to weather for about a month.
[quote name=”Micheal ONeil”]1 year
Cedar deck railing 5/4″
aged and weathered for 1 year
Never stained, intentional
The deck itself is composite. The entire railing and posts are Cedar, not sure which type. Washed with chemical and power washer Saturday the 31st. Have sanded the rest of the railing removing the remaining gray and “hairs” from power washing. I plan on staining as soon as twp 100 arrives, hopefully Saturday. It has been dry here, is 1 week enough time to wait to stain after power washing?? do you see any problems with my prep work or plan??[/quote]
No you should be good go with the staining.
1 year
Cedar deck railing 5/4″
aged and weathered for 1 year
Never stained, intentional
The deck itself is composite. The entire railing and posts are Cedar, not sure which type. Washed with chemical and power washer Saturday the 31st. Have sanded the rest of the railing removing the remaining gray and “hairs” from power washing. I plan on staining as soon as twp 100 arrives, hopefully Saturday. It has been dry here, is 1 week enough time to wait to stain after power washing?? do you see any problems with my prep work or plan??
[quote name=”Zane Harper”]Cedar deck is 2.5 years old, built Sep 2011. I stained it in Oct 2011 with TWP 101 Cedar, didn’t want to wait until spring for it to cure.
Have not treated it since. We got a dog that has not helped. Wood looks mostly ok, but some cracks where stain has worn off and it is natural grey.
Does stain need to be stripped and/or sanded? Or can we try to just power wash and restain? Also, I still have some 101 Cedar and also some 1500 Natural that I bought from MFG (don’t know why I have that too). Can they be used together? Thanks![/quote]
You could probably mix them together. I would strip and brighten for the prep on this.
Cedar deck is 2.5 years old, built Sep 2011. I stained it in Oct 2011 with TWP 101 Cedar, didn’t want to wait until spring for it to cure.
Have not treated it since. We got a dog that has not helped. Wood looks mostly ok, but some cracks where stain has worn off and it is natural grey.
Does stain need to be stripped and/or sanded? Or can we try to just power wash and restain? Also, I still have some 101 Cedar and also some 1500 Natural that I bought from MFG (don’t know why I have that too). Can they be used together? Thanks!
[quote name=”MichiganDeck”]1 8 years old
2 PT Pine
3 Some boards were rotted and replaced. very dry and splitting
4 Stained every other year with Cabot Semi Solid stain
5 Direct sun all morning until 4-5 pm. South side of the house. We are in Michigan. I need something that will hold up to the harsh winters that preserves my deck and also stops the mold and rotting issues. Deck is 7feet off the ground too.[/quote]
You will need to remove the Cabot first and that may require stripping and sanding if you have multiple layers. Once prepped, use the 100 series.
[quote name=”John Clapper”]20 year old pine log siding
Average condition of wood. Used Sikkens SDR on previous coatings.
What prep work is recommended, and are two coats required/
What product would you recommend for 10,000 foot elevation with snow, water and high uv issues?[/quote]
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper and pressure washer to remove the Sikkens. Use Restore A Deck Brightener when done. Stain with the 100 Series. Thanks
[quote name=”Melissa D”]My deck is probably 10-20 yrs old. I don’t know what kind of wood was used. I live in NE Ohio. The condition is average. I don’t know what it was stained with by the previous owners, but we used Cabot semi-solid on it previously. Can TWP be used over the old stain or does the deck have to be stripped?[/quote]
No you cannot use TWP on top of a different stain. Need to remove.
[quote name=”Cathie”]Your colors of the Dark Oak stain appear to be very different when comparing the 103 and 1503 representations online. The 103 appears to be much darker or at least more saturated than the 1503. Is that what I should expect to see when applied? Are the two colors that different?[/quote]
Actually they are very similar when applied.
My deck is probably 10-20 yrs old. I don’t know what kind of wood was used. I live in NE Ohio. The condition is average. I don’t know what it was stained with by the previous owners, but we used Cabot semi-solid on it previously. Can TWP be used over the old stain or does the deck have to be stripped?
Your colors of the Dark Oak stain appear to be very different when comparing the 103 and 1503 representations online. The 103 appears to be much darker or at least more saturated than the 1503. Is that what I should expect to see when applied? Are the two colors that different?
I live in the Minneapolis area and have a three year old cedar deck facing east with full sun. It was first stained six months after installation with Sikkens SRD semi transparent stain. The stain lasted one season before it showed signs of mold and peeling. The deck was sanded down and resurfaced with the same stain, except I put a second coat two weeks after the first coat. Again, the stain is not holding up and showing significant mold and peeling.
I do not want to sand and restain every year. I want a quality stain that will last and make sure the stain is applied to the best manufacturer’s practices.
What stain would you recommend and what is the appropriate method of preparing the substrate given my decks condition? I would apply a solid stain if it adds years before requiring additional maintenance.